Northville Farms
Riverhead farmers market draws a crowd. On a Thursday afternoon in August, Gwen Ganz Gajeski is running the Northville Farms farmstand, with the help of Marcia, a friend, and Gwen’s niece, Kristina...
View ArticleThe Meat Men
Beckoning carnivores on Route 25; Will Miloski and son Mark; impulse items. “Here, take it!” Will Miloski told his son, Mark, in 1991, when he and his wife, Ann, who had been running Miloski’s Farms...
View ArticleField of Greens
Bob Nolan watches lettuce transplanting. From 1890s Germany, to Middle Village, Queens, to Valley Stream, Long Island, then Bethpage, and finally, to Brookhaven in 1953, Bob Nolan’s family has been in...
View ArticleThe Architectural Orchard
Espalier, (Ess-PAL-yay), according to Wikipedia, is “the horticultural technique of training trees through pruning and grafting in order to create ‘two-dimensional’ or single-plane patterns by the...
View ArticleThe Natural
Julie Jacobs didn’t set out to be a cook. Especially not one on Long Island. The Wantagh native earned a degree in music from Ithaca College, where she fell hard for bucolic upstate. Looking for work...
View ArticlePECONIC FORAGER: Gone Plummin’
The elusive, bittersweet, stubbornly hardy fruit is worth the while. Beach plum bliss is, perhaps, a kind of madness peculiar to natives of Long Island, Cape Cod, Cape May and a few unsullied beaches...
View ArticleROADSIDE DIARIES: The Big Apple on the Big Island
The fruit that deserves our affection. There’s good reason New York is named the Apple State, and New York City is called the Big Apple. Only Washington State produces more apples than the orchards...
View ArticleCorn Kings
WADING RIVER—”Corn,” according to Joe Famularo and Louis Imperiale, authors of Vegetables, “may be even more American than the proverbial apple pie.” Thanks to Columbus, corn was probably known all...
View ArticleTHE ROADSIDE DIARIES: The Bread Basket of the Big Apple
The Andrews family still trucks veggies to the Bronx. WADING RIVER—When Bob Andrews Jr. is asked, “How many tons of greens do you take to market every week?” his deeply tanned, friendly face crinkles...
View ArticleFrom Our Archives: Gone Plummin’
Beach plum bliss is, perhaps, a kind of madness peculiar to natives of Long Island, Cape Cod, Cape May and a few unsullied beaches as far south as Maryland. If you’re fortunate enough to access the...
View ArticleShellfish Soup
Memories of hoary shucking knives and chowders past. A sign outside a gift shop in Aquebogue seemed to tease the dedicated locavores of the East End: Jelly Beans Have Arrived. It is, we guess, a sign...
View ArticleSay Peas Recipes, Please…
Lettuces and peas are the early pleasures of Spring, slipping smoothly into summer’s first strawberry crop. It should make perfect sense to combine them in cookery. If you’re lucky enough to have a...
View ArticleMake the Most of Strawberries in Season; It’ll Be Over Soon!
There are tricks to bringing out the best of any food, like sprinkling salt on melon. Invariably the intensity of even a watermelon’s tangy sweetness is enhanced. Our strawberry season on Long Island...
View ArticleTalk to Me of Tomato
My uncle Murray Bernstein moved his family from Long Island to California in 1958. When family visited them the following July, the car reeked of ripe beefsteak tomatoes from my father’s garden. The...
View ArticleDuck Recipes for the Fall
Fall is the perfect time to perfect your duck dishes. First nail down your favorite rub, then look to the past, then check out what they’re cooking at Dark Horse restaurant in Riverhead. Duck Rub:...
View ArticleDuck Into Fall
Fall on Long Island: warmer ocean, uncluttered beaches, shorter days, cooler evenings, wild ducks and geese flying in formation in still-sunny skies. Hunting season, fattening-up time on poultry farms,...
View ArticleCauliflower Gratinée
By Joan Bernstein Steam florets of 1 large head of cauliflower until al dente. In a medium sauté pan, make a light-brown roux with 2 tablespoons butter, 2 tablespoons flour and ½ teaspoon dry mustard....
View ArticleRoasted Cauliflower Florets
By Joan Bernstein Cut a large head of white cauliflower into quarters, then slice into flat pieces. The idea is to have flat sides that will brown on a baking sheet. Preheat the oven to 425°. Spread...
View ArticleQuick, Healthy Cauliflower Sauté
By Joan Bernstein Ingredients: 1 pound cauliflower florets 5 tablespoons chicken broth or bouillon 1 teaspooon turmeric or curry powder 3 tablespoon light olive oil 2 teaspoon lemon juice Salt and...
View ArticleJoan’s Cauliflower Mash
By Joan Bernstein Cut a large head of cauliflower into small pieces. In a microwave-safe bowl, steam the cauliflower with a little water until fairly soft. Drain and dry well with paper towels. Using a...
View ArticleCauliflower: The ‘Brainy’ Vegetable
It’s got a stem, looks smart and tastes better. American writer and humorist Mark Twain referred to cauliflower as “a cabbage with a college education.” I’ve wracked my wits trying to understand this...
View ArticleRECIPES: There’s No Beating Beets In Winter
Russian beet salad and cat in St. Petersburg. I love to travel. I love food. Over time, I’ve become the “accidental foodie.” Extreme, exotic flying, rooting or oceanic critters are not my style. I’m...
View ArticleKnishes Are Hot Stuff(ing)! Or a Knish (Isn’t) Just a Knish
When was the last time you ate that delicious phenomena from the lower east side and Brooklyn, the potato-stuffed square fried “pie” called the Coney Island Knish? Knishes (pronounced kuh-nish) come...
View ArticleLet Them Eat Grass!
Image via. Marie Antoinette’s misleading statement has caused many a misunderstanding. “Let them eat cake,” she sneered at the lowly peasants. In the queen of France’s time, it was not cake, but bread...
View ArticleRECIPE: Mallorca’s Famous Coca de Patata, or Potato Rolls
Last October I visited a friend at his home in Mallorca who had bought a Tonkinese kitten from me. I felt the Island connection immediately. After all, I’m island-bred. This all-terrain bit of land in...
View ArticleWhat Shines Brightest During the Festival of Lights? Latkes
Chanukah is the Jewish holiday of fried foods. Traditionally, potato pancakes, aka “latkes,” and deep-fried doughnuts share the marquee. As the world turns, though, we’re seeing many variations on the...
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